St John's Co-Cathedral Valletta: What to See Inside

# St John's Co-Cathedral Valletta: What to See Inside

Nestled in the heart of Valletta, St John's Co-Cathedral stands as one of Europe's most spectacular examples of Baroque architecture and artistry. This magnificent church is far more than just a place of worship—it's a living museum of extraordinary artistic treasures that span centuries of religious devotion and architectural brilliance.

A Brief History

Constructed between 1573 and 1578 by the Knights Hospitaller, St John's Co-Cathedral was designed as the Order's conventional church. The Knights spared no expense in creating a sanctuary that would reflect their wealth, power, and deep religious faith. While the exterior appears relatively modest—almost austere—the interior reveals a breathtaking explosion of colour, gold, marble, and artistic masterpieces that will leave you speechless.

The Entrance and Vestibule

As you step through the heavy wooden doors, you'll immediately notice the intricate marble floor beneath your feet. The vestibule sets the tone for what's to come, with its polished stone and carefully designed proportions that guide your eye deeper into the cathedral. Take a moment here to let your eyes adjust to the interior light and absorb the grandeur before you.

The Main Nave

The central nave is absolutely breathtaking. Your first impression might be overwhelming—and that's entirely intentional. The barrel-vaulted ceiling, rising approximately 40 metres above you, is covered entirely in stunning gilt bas-reliefs and frescoes that depict scenes from the life of St John the Baptist, the cathedral's patron saint.

The intricate ceiling work, completed by Mattia Preti, is a masterclass in Baroque drama. Every square inch appears gilded and carved with religious imagery, creating an almost heavenly atmosphere. The light streaming through the windows catches the gold leaf, creating a shimmering effect that's truly mesmerising.

The Side Chapels

One of the cathedral's greatest treasures lies in its eight side chapels, each dedicated to different saints and each serving as a private chapel for one of the Order's languages (the Knights were organised by language: French, Italian, Spanish, German, English, Auvergne, Provence, and Castile).

Chapel of the Holy Relics

This chapel houses remains of various saints and is adorned with exceptional artwork. The architectural details and paintings here demonstrate the Knights' commitment to creating spaces of spiritual significance.

The Oratory

Located at the back of the cathedral, the Oratory contains one of the most famous paintings in the world: Caravaggio's "The Beheading of St John the Baptist." This masterpiece, measuring 3.69 by 5.20 metres, is extraordinary. Caravaggio created this work while imprisoned in Malta and seeking pardon from the Grand Master. The painting's dramatic use of light and shadow, combined with its raw emotional power, makes it worth the visit alone.

Caravaggio's Masterpiece

Caravaggio's presence in this cathedral cannot be overstated. Beyond "The Beheading," he painted other works here including "St Jerome Writing" and "St John the Baptist in the Wilderness." His revolutionary style—with its stark realism, dramatic lighting, and emotional intensity—profoundly influenced Baroque art throughout Europe.

The "Beheading of St John the Baptist" is particularly moving. It depicts the moment of execution with brutal honesty, showing soldiers and onlookers in everyday clothes rather than idealised robes. The painting captures genuine human emotion—suffering, shock, and resignation.

The Marble Floor

Don't forget to look down! The cathedral floor is an absolute masterpiece in itself. Composed of coloured marble from around Europe and beyond, it features the coat of arms and epitaphs of numerous Knights Hospitaller, Grand Masters, and other notable figures. Over 375 tombs are integrated into the floor design, making it a literal floor of history. The geometric patterns and heraldic designs create an intricate mosaic that's almost hypnotic to examine.

The Chapels' Artistic Treasures

Each of the side chapels contains remarkable artwork and sculptures:

• Stunning altar pieces by renowned Baroque masters
• Marble statues of saints and ecclesiastical figures
• Ornate wooden doors and frames with intricate carving
• Gilt bronze decorative elements throughout
• Detailed marble columns in various colours from across Europe

The Crypt

Beneath the cathedral lies the crypt, which contains the tombs and remains of Grand Masters and Knights of the highest rank. This atmospheric space, accessible through a staircase in the cathedral, gives you a tangible sense of the Order's historical significance and the thousands of years of Christian history contained within these walls.

Practical Information

Opening Hours and Admission

• The cathedral is typically open Monday to Friday from 9:30 AM to 4:30 PM
• Saturday hours are usually 9:30 AM to 1:00 PM
• Sunday is reserved for worship and has limited visiting hours
• Admission costs approximately €10 for adults
• Children and students often receive discounts

Best Times to Visit

For the best experience, arrive early in the morning to avoid crowds. The light is particularly beautiful in the late morning, which enhances the ceiling frescoes and Caravaggio paintings. Avoid midday when tour groups are heaviest.

Getting There

Valetta is easily accessible from Valletta's central bus station. The cathedral is located on St John Street in the city centre, just a short walk from the Upper Barrakka Gardens. Free parking isn't available in Valletta, but there's a multi-storey car park nearby.

What to Bring

Wear comfortable shoes and bring a camera (though flash photography isn't permitted for the Caravaggio paintings). The cathedral can be cool, so a light sweater might be appreciated.

Conclusion

St John's Co-Cathedral represents the pinnacle of Baroque splendour in the Mediterranean. Whether you're an art lover, history enthusiast, or spiritual seeker, this cathedral offers something profoundly moving. The combination of architectural brilliance, artistic masterpieces, and historical significance makes it not just one of Malta's must-see attractions, but one of Europe's greatest treasures. Allow at least two hours for your visit to properly appreciate the incredible details and artistry contained within these walls.